Friday, October 21, 2011

Good-by Tonga, Hello Fiji

Ron, crew, and Corrie in Vava'u, Tonga
The ancient kingdom of Tonga, oldest and last remaining Polynesian monarchy, is the only Pacific nation never brought under foreign rule. Tonga is divided into  three main parts: the Tongatapu Group in the south, the Ha'apai Group, a far flung archipelago of low coral islands and soaring volcano's in the center; and in the north the Vava'u group with its many waterways and underwater caves for diving. Tonga is comprised of 170 islands, 36 are uninhabited and there is 100 of miles or more, of ocean between the groups. In Vava'u, one amazing vista succeeds another, all so varied you are continually consulting the map to discover just what you are seeing! Of the 34 forested islands, 21 are inhabited.
Vava'u has been the cruiser's port of call in Tonga for decades because of its many waterways, beautiful islands and friendly people. Some cruisers stay here because it is as close to a hurricane haven as you can get. Most head for New Zealand for the hurricane season but some brave souls stay in Vava'u. As for Slow Dance, we are going to wait out the season for 6 months in Fiji.

On first arriving in Vava'u, we passed down some of the most beautiful waterways I have ever seen. We anchored just outside Neiafu city and waited for customs and immigration to clear us in. There is an excellent market on weekdays and especially great on Saturday. There were several good restaurants and bars,one of which held a show every Wednesday night called the Fakka Girl show, consisting of female impersonators! Now, this is very strange as Tonga is more religious then any islands we have visited thus far. If a man or woman is caught shirtless, its a $20.00 fine for the man and the woman may be arrested! Of course, once out on one of the many deserted beaches, one could swim naked.

Neiafu town
Corrie
Corrie we will miss you, it was a pleasure having you aboard for a week of exploring Vava'u. Fair winds and traveling seas on your cross to New Zealand. We first met Corrie in French Marquesas Islands. Corrie is traveling with her parents, Neil and Ruth who were posted on the Blog in Apia, Western Samoa when we all went to the Rugby game there. Corrie had already visited the outer islands of Vava'u and showed us the way to some really cool caves for snorkeling and diving. There were fabulous deserted beaches to explore, where we swam and built beach fires late into the night. 

Flowers in his hair, but not going to San Fransisco
This pix of Ron was taken on James beach; James was a master Diesel mechanic from Alabama, living in Vava'u with his family. We were so lucky to find James as he fixed a very serious problem with our engine. Thank you James, you are amazing! Thank you also for the great evening we spent on your beach, complete with roaring fire and pig roast!
Suzie Q climbed the tree for a better view

Corrie relaxed with a book

Beach by resort



Cookie on deserted beach. The cigarettes belong to the boy's. A habit we try hard to break them of!

Beach Fire

The outer Islands came in all shapes and sizes. Many were deserted and seemed to rise unnaturally.  from the sea. There were so many lovely white sand beaches to explore and some of the islands had rock walls with caves so large we drove the Dingy into them for a snorkel. You could only swim so far into the cave until it was so dark you couldn't see! Corrie took everyone to an underwater cave for a dive. Sooz had a short dive lesson and I opted to wait until Fiji for my first lesson.

Sooz and Cookie


Outer Islands, Vava'u, Tonga

Group Photo!

BJ looking good


Ron looking so cute after his nap but in need of a shave.

Trinidad looking so cute after her swim

Trini goes to shore

Sean, Corrie, and Sooze on his B-day. Are all the guys from South Africa so damn good looking?

Sean, Corrie, and Cookie, on deserted beach

Cookie and Sooz on route

Squid checking out Slow Dance.

Cookie and Trinidad going ashore

Cookie and Trinidad on the beach with Ali, a sweet dog that was abandoned by some cruisers and adopted by the resort.



One of the many beaches around Vava'u


Market at Vava'u

Vava'u Market

Papaya, banana, muffins; no sugar and delicious!
Cool Map of Fiji
The cross to Fiji took about 2.5 days, arriving in Suva late Friday and missing check in by a few hours. When you arrive in a new country you must fly a yellow Quarantine flag until you clear in with Customs and Immigration.You are not allowed off your boat until this is done; being a Friday, we would not be allowed off until late Monday. However, seeing as I am on a boat with a bunch of rule breakers, not only did we get off the boat Friday and Saturday, but went to the market as well as all the good dance spots! The market in Suva is the most famous in all the South Pacific. (Pix will be posted on my next post) Amazing place that took day's to see. The entire upstairs is comprised of spices from all over the world, but mostly Indian spices and legumes. There were numerous types of Kava, a popular drink here on Fiji. Kava is a root that is pounded into a fine powder, steeped in water like tea, and served cold, from a coconut bowl. Kava looks like muddy water and is an acquired taste: the effect is a numb mouth and drowsy demeanor.

We hooked up with a couple of Aussie sailors at the Suva yacht club who showed us all the best hotspots and the party went on for 2 days! I erased all the incriminating photos but below is a pix that captures how we all felt come Sunday morning!
UGH! I am never drinking again.






Wednesday, October 5, 2011

Rugby, King Trish,and Good-by to new friends.

Beach at Trish's Barefoot Bar

We returned to American Samoa to retrieve the new batteries and await Ron and Sooz return. Slow Dance tied up on the fisherman's docks, where we made new cruiser, as well as local Samoan friends. The fisherman gifted us each day with fresh Wahoo, Mahi-Mahi, and Red Snapper.


Sean, BJ, and I met Ron and Sooz at the airport with funny sign's and a big truck. Good thing, as they had a ton of stuff, including these cool collapsible bicycles.


Ron and I headed out one day on the local bus to Tupua, for Tisha's Barefoot Bar; a little paradise on a stretch of white sand beach. The view was great, as you can see.                       
King Trish
Even Trini loved the new Bikes
Ron took a spin





Little Darma, tiny Dancer

Alec and Nettie, really miss you guys
Thank you Jerry for all your help
Not everyone thought the Rugby game was exciting
Good-by to Maka, a special friend
Sailing Away
Samoa vs Australia (Samoa kicked butt)
Sean, Cody, Ruth, Neil, and me (Alec took the photo)
At Trish's Barefoot Bar, Ron opted for a snorkel while I was content for a swim. The current in the channel proved fierce and Ron got a real workout swimming in. After a rinse under the outdoor shower, we sat for a drink with a lovely couple who were getting married in a few days time. These love birds new each other in high school and recently reconnected on Facebook. Humm? He is Samoan, educated in USA, and she is a nurse from California. They had not seen each other for 25 years and she just got off the plane 4 days ago. Ain't love grand. 

Tisha (Tee-sha) is the eldest daughter of the deceased chief of her village. Eldest daughters carry alot of weight in the Samoan family structure. Tisha went to collage in San Diego and married herself a Kiwi man. Girls are never Chief, however, Tisha changed that with her successful Bar and great marketing skills. All the land that was her village is her's to rule and the villagers come to her for assistance and advise. I thought she made an excellent Chief and her lunch was the best Samoan food, to date. Apparently the coconut is roasted in the ground, then shredded out and mixed with young taro leaves. The small bananas, were marked on a hot grill, pealed, and served warm. They had a pleasant smokey flavor. Also served were banana chips, lightly salted and crispy. I had the swordfish. which was just okay, but the view more than made up for the fish.

Grace, Hedi, and the cook







Red Snapper




The snapper was delicious. It was prepared in two ways: dipped in egg and dredged in flour, lightly sauteed' with garlic and Italian herbs. Served with Angel Hair pasta, garlic tomato sauce. The second night I cooked the fish whole after rubbing the inside with olive oil, lemon, and then stuffing with garlic, onion, and peppers. The skin pulls away when the fish is roasted whole in a hot oven.
Trini with her ears in the wind
Vava'u Tonga, is beyond beautiful. Below is Faka town, which is very gritty, but once out around the islands it is amazing There are caves to dive and snorkel in, deserted beaches to swim and have bond fires at night. We are still snapping photo's and once we get to Fiji, I will post the photo's which can never capture the beauty of this place.
Neiafu, Vava'u, Tonga


Signing off, until next time......