20 Days at sea and......Hello all! Arrived at Nuka Hiva 3 days ago to check in with the officials. We had a beautiful crossing and if the internet allows, (worse than Mexican internet) we have some great photos and stories and good food to share. At the very least, I wanted to post the journal so you could follow the journey. I will try to upload a few photos as well. Wish me luck!
Saturday March 26th, our last night in La Cruz was spent quietly as a group, preparing and toasting to our much anticipated adventure crossing the Pacific Ocean to French Polynesia. After a good nights rest and some last minute laundry, we fueled up Slow Dance Sunday morning for the journey.
Monday, day 3: The crew had a bit of adjusting to do, as some of us were new to the boat and all had a learning curve regarding Slow Dance. After lunch we headed out to the open sea. Not much good wind speed so we motored most of the 300 miles to the island of Sorraro. We arrived at dawn on the second day to the island, which turned out to be a military base for the Mexican Navy and Marines. We had barely dropped the anchor when we were hailed on the radio; luckily Sherri speaks Spanish and was able to give information concerning why we were anchored in the bay. With-in 20 minutes we were boarded by soldiers carrying AK-47 machine guns. These guys were serious, very mean looking. We all kept quiet while Ron explined in English and Sherri translated in Spanish. We were all asked to stand on deck while our boat papers and passports were inspected. Ron explained that we were headed to the Marquesas and had a problem with the boat and needed a bit of time to sort it out. The guards radioed their captain and commenced filling out several pages of information on us. The guy in charge was told to send 2 armed soldiers down to the engine room with Ron so they could see what the problem was. Of course, these guys had no idea what they were looking at as the engine room is complicated. I wanted to take photos but knew that would be a really bad idea. One of the Navy guys was really cool and made some jokes during the process. The captain on the other end of the radio, suggested that the guys bring back the girls from the boat; we all got a huge laugh out of that. We were granted permission to stay the night and fix our problem, however, we must be gone in the morning. In addition we were instructed that we could not fish or swim while in the bay, a real bummer as the water was outrageously blue clear and full of sea turtles, tuna, and dolphins. It was painful, as we all wanted to swim. Susan managed to slip in the water at dusk for a quick swim, sneaky lucky girl.
Next day was Wednesday Day 4: We left the protected bay for the sea journey to the Marquesas. The sails went up and we caught the wind; finally, full sails, no motor, just the swish of the sea against the boat. It was so quiet we could whisper to each other in the pilot house. Slow Dance is a beauty, but when her sails are full as she catches the wind, she is spectacular.
Day 5 from the island and we are surrounded by the deep blue open waters. The crew has been adjusting to the watches and the handling of the sails. Watches rotate every 24 hours and are done by 2 persons assigned to 3 hour watches. I have a watch everyday from 12 noon until 3PM, but there is not much going on and the others are up and down from their rest throughout the day.
Berkeley and Susan are fishing every day in hopes of catching a tuna. Everyone has great collections of music, so we are doing a lot of singing and dancing. We are settling into a routine. Sherri works Ron out everyday and his arm is regaining range of motion. We are so luckily to have this crew as everyone is amazingly talented and easy going.
Daz is navigating with the sextet,and he documents the findings on a spreadsheet for his certification. The readings are taken on sun and moon, very cool. Made the famous Pizza for dinner and everyone loved it. Some of the crew had a shot of Tequila to celebrate 500 miles. I opted for a glass of red wine with my pizza.
It's Friday Day 6 April 1st and Louise and I decided we must prank on the crew. (Must see photo to appreciate) The wind had died away to nothing and we had to turn the motor on at 6AM. Can't wait until we get the wind back and can sail, it's so wonderful, you feel so close to the elements.
I learned the hard way about vacuum sealing food items. The problem is the vegetables turn to mush! I have had to throw overboard some valuable fresh produce and struggle to save the rest. I tossed 6 cucumbers, 4 zucchini, 3 tomatoes, bag of cherry tomatoes and all the lettuce! I have very little spring mix lettuce left for salads.Luckily I have frozen veggies and lots of fresh cabbage, red and green. Also have carrots, beets, asparagus, jicima, Roma tomatoes, zucchini, potatoes, onions red and white, avocados, and peppers, red, green, and yellow. The last thing you ever want is to run out of food in the middle of the ocean! Wish the guys would catch some fish. I am making Mexican style quiche tonight with re-fried black beans and rice. Also a salad to use up the lettuce before it goes bad.
Day 9, Tuesday April 5th: 1000 miles from land and the great sea is all around. I am in awe. Yesterday was a mild stone for me as I am pretty certain I got my sea legs and am no longer sea sick. The winds have been fluky and the sea mixed up with waves coming from different angels. We have been able to sail the entire way now and have used the engines only once. We are in the North east trade-winds and after crossing the Equator we will turn toward the Marquesas Islands in the south east trade-winds. The wind is easterly and I am beginning to understand the winds thanks to Berkeley and Ron's knowledge.
Finally, a fish! Louise baited up the poles and by golly caught us a nice Tuna. I made Sushmi and susi for lunch, with wasabi and ginger. The remainder was seared for dinner and served over red cabbage with apples and rice vinegar. It doesn't get any fresher than that.
We are officially down to dried fruit and very little fresh produce, but we have lots of potatoes, onions, garlic and frozen veggies. The last of the bread will be gone tomorrow so I will be making bread.
Day 12, Friday, April 8: The sea has been angry the last 2 days with strong winds and heavy rains. We are at 3 degrees latitude, in what is known as the convergence zone, where weather is generated from different directions. 18-20 knots of wind made for good sailing at 6-7 knots. Sailors do not gauge the seas by wave height but rather by knots of wind. If we were in 30 knots of wind the waves would be 6-8 feet. The swells have been large and we rolled a lot the night before. I was bounced out of the bed and finally came up to the wheel room as sleep was not possible. Turns out most of the crew was up there as well and Susan had some far out music that went well with the stormy conditions.
Made my first whole wheat bread the old fashion way as I just can't bring myself to use the bread maker. It was delicious! We have caught 2 more tuna, one of good size, so lunch today will be raw tuna rolls in Nori seaweed. I am going to sear the rest and put it over cabbage as that is all that is left of the fresh produce. Well, I also have some peppers and onions.
Also made delicious granola with rolled oats, honey, almonds, walnuts, brewers yeast (good source for all the b vitamins) and dried cherries. Yummmm. Today I will make some brownies and Pizza for dinner.
Susan has some great reggae tunes and we all jammed out on deck before the rains came. I made a morracca from a glass jar filled with beans.The ocean has a way of causing a letting go of things, giving a sense of freedom and intimacy with nature ; the rhythm of things universal. The world doesn't matter out here under a billion stars with a waxing moon to follow. Senses get acute at wind, wave, and course, even without the radar, you can feel the wind's every movement. At times I curse the wind when it changes and the boat rocks while I am cooking in the galley. I have become adept at rigging up ways to keep the pots on the stove and the buns in the oven. The others laugh when they hear chef let out a string of obscenities after a wave rocks the boat and everything slides in the galley.
Wow! Lou Lou and I real in a big tuna. That's me holding the fishy. Fillet Master, Daz carves the beauty and we have tuna tartar on thin shredded cabbage, finely chopped green peppers, minced Jicama, shredded carrots,and some peanut sauce. In addition I made Thai fish curry over Quinoa and some crusty bread. Sorry folks, I will be more diligent with the food photos.
The clouds seem to be clearing but there is still no wind. We motor on, Sherri makes knotted ties for the emergency whistles and Berkeley twists a rope good enough to be a line. (That's sailor talk for rope is a rope until it ties down your sails and such, then it becomes a line.) We should reach the equator soon and apparently, this is a big deal complete with certain protocol and ritual for those crossing. Lou Lou and Susan are making strange things that will be utilized for our epic crossing. Stand by for the pix after we cross, should be amusing!
April 15, 2011, Friday day 19 at sea. The last week has been challenging with stormy weather; we have not seen the sun in many days. Today the clouds are high and the sun is peeking through at times. We will arrive to the island of UA Huka at first light, which is the first land since leaving La Cruz marina in Mexico. We are all anxious to spend a night on calm water, wake up, have a swim, and frolic a bit before checking in with the officials Monday morning on the island of Nuka Hiva. Looking forward to a laundry, supermarket and pirate bar for a cold beer.
A great ritual was planned for crossing the Equator, however, the rain and rough seas dampened our spirits, but not for long, as you can tell from the pictures, the show did go on and the Don Peri on was drank with great gusto. Photo's and video's are hilarious and as soon as the internet allows I will post.
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Thursday, April 21, 2011: It has been raining a lot here. We checked in and took the laundry to the local laundry goddess (very attractive lady) The laundry came back and it looks as if no detergent were used just beating on rocks! When asked when the laundry would be ready, we were told it was still drying on the roof and if the sun would stay out it could be picked up tomorrow. I have now hung a line on the boat so we can do our own. Wine here is over $150.00 for a bottle that would cost $8.00 at Trader Joe's. Go figure, and it's French. Lot's of Brie, Baguettes, and snails in the can. Most foods are frozen or canned and there are no good crackers to be had. The girls stopped for a bottle of wine at the local bar and ordered without checking the price; $8000 Franks! That's $100.00. Ron and I got off easier, 2 beers for $14.00. Good thing I overstocked before leaving Mexico.
As soon as the rain stops we are headed out around the island to a remote and beautiful bay called Anaho Bay. It is considered one of the best sheltered bay's and most beautiful in the Marquesas.
