Thursday, August 4, 2011

Sailing on

Palmerston
Saturday July 22, 2011: Left for Aitutaki, a small island in the Cook Islands; 32 KM from Rarotonga and refuted to have the most gorgeous lagoon in the world! There are several uninhabited motu's around the island and the sea is teaming with marine life. The crossing from Rarotonga to Aitutaki took 24 hours under sail and motor. Our last crossing was a bit rough so this time, I 
taped things down and wrapped the glasses in diapers; of course it turned out to be the smoothest crossing yet! I slept like a baby.

We are experiencing an auto pilot issue and the boat has to be manually steered, which is easy enough in good weather but exhausting in bad conditions. We received a new auto pilot part in Rarotonga, that's why we were there 16 day's waiting for the part to be ordered and flown in, but after replacing the part it still did not work. Our course was Palmerston when we left Aitutaki, which was a day and night trip; then we were off  to Samoa which was 3-4 days at sea, a very rough 3 days. Good news is I am finally over being seasick.

Rocks on the reef at Autitaki
Aitutaki was indeed beautiful, as for the most beautiful lagoon in the world? I would say the advertisement is misleading.  The pass was to shallow for Slow Dance, so we anchored outside the reef in 80 FT water.
We took Trini ashore for a walk and the tour guide driving a bus full of Kiwi tourists yelled out to us "Git ya dog off de island or weel shoot it!" Apparently no dog's inhabit this island due to potential diseases they may carry. (This anti dog thing in the islands, is beginning to wear on us and poor Trini gets mostly swimming exercise) The travel guide said Aitutaki was the friendliest place on earth; Hum-um?! Most of the people we encountered were not friendly, and when we stopped in the lagoon for lunch, the restaurant was beyond slow, unfriendly and had lousy food. Most fun was, we rented 2 motor bikes ( never even asked to see a drivers license) I rode with Sean and Ron rode with Sooz, and we toured the entire island in several hours. It's very rural with many bungalow accommodations and 1 large fancy resort.

The sand was amazing and felt great between the toes
Palmerston was a very interesting island, with only 75 population. Bob came out to greet us as soon as we arrived and led us to a good anchorage in his speed boat. We were loaded into the tender and led to shore (very tricky as coral heads are everywhere) After a tour of the town and introductions to just about everyone, we sat for a true island lunch, prepared by Bob's wife. Lunch was delicious, consisting of fried Whaoo, Taro Root, pancakes, and a soy gravy for the sticky rice.

Lunch

Bob's wife, son Andrew, and baby girl

Bob' has 6 children and his 19 year old daughter was heading to university in New Zealand. When asked about dating on Palmerston, her reply was, "I can not date because I am related to everyone! 
Boobies in the tree
There are more freezers on Palmerston than people. The entire village pulls together and nets fish, hundreds at a time, everyone participates, even the old women. The folks here were the nicest on the planet; they sent us off with fresh Wahoo, Breadfruit, and coconuts.
Restaurant on the lagoon. Beautiful location, lousy food and service.

Ron and Bob at the Yacht Club, Palmerston

Sean and Ron

Table in the sand on Autitaki

Lunch at Bob's home






Sara has lived on Palmerston all her life and is a Masters







The guy who started it all was William Masters, an English man who settled on Palmerston with 3 Polynesian wives. Willy was quite the man and even got himself recognized as a dignitary by his mother England. The Masters are in the thousands and spread about the South Pacific. Everyone on Palmerston was a Masters! Bob wife was from a northern Cook Island.

Ron rode with Sooz on our trip around Aitutaki
Road round Autitaki
Autitaki was rural and the road round the island was pretty desolate. We spent just a day there and left in the evening for Palmerston.
Ron explores the beach on Palmerston
Sunrise over Palmerston


Bob's beach on Palmerston
Banana Cake for everyone, made from all those banana's we were given on rarotonga
All you need is love

There were no cars or roads on the Island
Spa Day for Cookie when everyone went to shore day 2 on Palmerston. I had the boat all to myself and made the most of it.
Feet up for some R&R
Here lies willy, who now has decedents in the thousands spread throughout New Zealand, Australia and the Cook Islands.






















Monday, July 18, 2011

Recipes, Kiwi's, and an Island called Rarotonga

The harbor was small but very industrial. In addition, they were building a new super dock to attract big cruise lines.


The moon went full during our time here and what a sight she was over the mountains of Rarotonga

It was hard to capture the full spectrum view of the mountains, but they were spectacular, perhaps more so than Bora Bora


The people are Polynesian and speak English with a Kiwi accent, as we are in New Zealand territory. It's refreshing to be back in the land of English, although, the Islanders speak with a strong Kiwi accent, hard to understand them at times. Really falling in love with Rarotonga. The internet works great and all the people are happy and friendly. There are beach bars, music, and pizza! The Polish couple, Marcin and Aga, love it so much here they have decided to stay. Marcin was offered a job in Australia and they will make their way there soon. We will miss them, but that's how it goes with world traveler', here today and gone tomorrow. The Cook Islands are breath taking and we plan to visit the Island of Palmerston, a northern island with population, 50 people, all descendants from an English chap with three wives! Rumor has it that the Islanders love visitors, as few go there. Hopefully, they will not be like the native folk in the film Deliverance! I hate those damn inbreeds! If the weather permits, we will visit, Aautaki, a beautiful island just north of Rarotonga and renowned for it's white sand beaches and blue blue lagoon.


The name Rarotonga means "in the direction of the wind" It's fairly small, just 32 km around, with twisting valley's, towering mountains, and beautiful beaches. In recent years Rarotonga has become New Zealand's answer to Hawaii. Best of all, they love to party! Tonight we are going out to Trader Jack's for some live music. In fact, we hear all the hot spots are together down the main road and Friday night is the happening scene. We can walk from the boat to the clubs, or should I say, stagger home to the boat from the bar's, like true sailors on shore leave!

Pearl Beach Resort, other-side of Rarotonga. They have a fabulous cafe in the sand and the sand is like 10 feet of fine delicious powder. I've been waiting to see sand like this again...wow!

Ron and Brad in the kitchen at Brad's lovely home.
We made fast friend's with Brad and Christina. Brad has been on the Island for many years and hails from down-under. Brad has a few enterprises, such as; huge distributor of Nonie to the world, booming fishing charter biz, and three daycare's in Australia. Christina is from New Zealand and of the Malorie tribe. Her mom is from Roratonga and dad from New Zealand. Christina works in the travel and tourist Industry and is beautiful! Brad built his house and what a fine house it is! The front yard is all ocean and the home is very Feng-shui.
Christina; Brads lovely Island girl.

The local minister of Agriculture, befriended us and took Ron and I to his home, where he chopped down an entire Banana tree to give us this HUGE bunch of banana's! We also got some Papaya, limes, and lemons, right off the tree and all organic. Sooz hung the monster stalk from the mast. I see lot's of banana bread and cake in our future.

Sooz and Christina share a laugh.

The red wine was superb

Brad's front yard







Now for some recipes. 


BRIE TOAST
 Serves 12


2 Baguettes
Garlic Oil (use 1/2 cup olive oil and 8 cloves crushed garlic-make it the day before)
Sun-dried Tomatoes
Brie Cheese
Fresh basil
Pine nuts

Cut the baguette at an angle about 1/4 inch thick
Brush with garlic oil and toast lightly in oven at 350 degrees DO NOT OVER TOAST
Remove from oven and add 1 teaspoon sun-dried tomatoes and 1 slice of Brie
Place back in the oven until the Brie is soft and slightly melted.
Remove, top with chopped fresh basil and sprinkle of pine nuts
Serve warm



Some favorites;

Bread Fruit (Oru) Latkes. The recipe is on an earlier post. Bread Fruit falls from the

Mango, Papaya muffins
Peak of Rarotonga, taken by Sooz when she did the 4 hour hike across the Island.
Road sign as you go round the Island


They have simple messages here, like this road sign. The buses that take you round the Island read; clockwise and counterclockwise! Swear to god, that is written on the bus.

We have been here nearly 2 weeks waiting for an important part to be delivered. It has been a blast but we are anxious to get moving again. The trip to Palmerston will be 2 days; from there to Samoa 4-5 days at sea.

I need to get some recipes up, but we have been having such fun, we forget to snap the food photos. We have some lovely neighbors on the boat next to us; young folk from England sailing to Fiji. We had a huge dinner party last night and Brad brought the Mahi Mahi, which Brad said I cooked to perfection in chili, lime, cilantro, cumin, garlic, and olive oil. The feast included: black beans (cooked from scratch) fiesta Rice, home made salsa, roasted corn salad, papaya, and fresh tortillas. Yummmm. We believe that Slow Dance is getting a reputation through the islands as having the best food ever, with many comments such as: "this is the best food I have ever eaten". After numerous attempts to dine out, we stick to the boat, as it is the best restaurant in town!


Gaz and new crew mate (oh boy) cute girl whose name I do not know. They loved the dinner party.

The other sailor and his squeeze

Their boat; maybe we will see you in Fiji














Rarotonga sign post-Soos

IMG_5959 by clove
IMG_5959, a photo by clove on Flickr.

IMG_6007

IMG_6007 by clove
IMG_6007, a photo by clove on Flickr.

Friday, July 1, 2011

Never boring in Bora Bora

Backside of the mountain
I know I promised recipes folks but the internet connection is weak and I wanted to get the pictures posted first. Hopefully the internet in Tonga will be good.  We have a great anchorage here in Bora Bora, with in your face mountain view and Ron is right; this is by far the most beautiful island. We arrived Wednesday, than yesterday we all went together in the dingy round the island for a day off, stopping at every resort for beer and food. After working so hard the crew needed a day of R&R. We spent a week in Raitiea in the marina working on the boat and you should see her now! As soon as I can I will post the before and after pictures of the deck, which Sean and the crew sanded down. They also polished the boat as well as clean the haul...she is looking grand and Ron is a happy camper as he finally has a competent crew and a captain who knows engineering. It's been like heaven. Enjoy the pix....
Beach at the Hilton and we even swam in the pool! We were not kicked out of any resort, so we must have looked like we belonged there.

Machin and Aga are a joy to have aboard and Aga is hilarious when she has a few drinks and tells funny stories in English. Aga also speaks French, and it has been great having an interpreter to get things done. Very few French or Polynesians speak English.
Wow, now this is the over-water accommodation I imagined!


Sean, Ron, and Sooz at the Hilton


Sean and the cook on the beach somewhere in Bora Bora
 We found a really deserted beach with a sandy bottom that stretched for miles out in the bay. The kids followed us in their kayaks and on foot for a really long way out into the water.

Sean grew up in South Africa and in the Caribbean, where his parents live today. Sean has been on the sea his whole life and it shows by his excellent ability to drive the dingy as well as Slow Dance herself.

Trini had a fabulous time

Side view of the Island


Locals hut where they harvest Palm and coconut

Sean and Sooz

Local has a load of palm


Cute little island girl

Happy cook, got the day off

Macin took a group shot at the local fair

Aga and the cook


Is this not the face of a happy man!

Sean


Grilled Island veges, always a favorite 
 Chow for now, we will return with more stories, fine food, and recipes. We are going to Matupiti, (which I spelled wrong ) for a few day's. This is the last island in the Society chain and supposedly very wild and primitive Hope they have tomatoes as the store here in Bora Bora had none. We are going to a huge festival tonight, which is a very local affair, complete with karaoke singing. (gonna need alot of drinks. From there we will be at sea for 3-4 days until we reach Roratonga in the Cook Islands. Signing off.....Victoria