Clouds,Rain Cakes, and Marlyn

Leaf me alone!

Know how this leaf got to be so big? Rain, rain, rain, and more rain. Everyone just walks around wet; funny how the Fijians carry umbrellas on a sunny day but walk around soaked when it rains.  Best guess is, the rain cools one off from the hot humid day's of the monsoon season.

Rainbow

It rains really hard and just when you think it can't rain any harder....it's as if the roof will collapse under the pressure. The good thing is that there is almost always a rainbow after the rain.

The Yacht Club at Savusavu

Savusavu is a quiet little town on the northern island of Vanna Lavu ,and is considered a hurricane hole for boats seeking shelter from cyclones. Believe me, you do not want to be out on the ocean when those kind of winds kick up.  Savusavu has a cool little yacht club called the Copra Shed where on any given day you can see the cruisers gathered together for their afternoon libations. There are two supermarkets but the shelves are pretty empty when the supply boats do not make it in due to bad weather. The saving grace is a little store called Wine and Spirits run by a Kiwi man and his Asian wife. Wine and Spirits not only has reasonably priced wine and alcohol (Smirnoff vodka is $150.00 Fiji; that's $70.00 US$!!!)  also carries  Asian and American foods. Then there is the butcher where I can get good steaks for the boy's, chicken breast, and danish bacon. The open market was disappointing, because the heavy rains inhibited the crops of lettuce, tomatoes, peppers and other vegetables. Pineapple, papaya, bananas, and watermelon were plentiful, so we have been eating alot of fruit salsa and fruit salad.  

Neighbor boat here in Savusavu bay

Fruit Bowl

Poor Trinidad has had to endure some very bad grooming by the Slow Dance crew, as it is impossible to find a dog groomer in the South Pacific. Ron brought back a good pair of electric dog sheers and we all had fun creating a new hair style for Trini; her new name is "Spike" and she is happy her dog friends back home will not see her new do! They say you can't teach an old dog new tricks but i swear, Trinidad is like a new dog, fetching sticks with a fierce growl, swimming out to the dingy on her own, and trying really hard to stop whining every time we approach shore. 

Trini got a Mohawk

The cruisers gathered for a jam session at the Decked Out Bar and some locals joined in as well .I played tambourine, and popcorn in a glass jar. (should have bought those morocco's  in Mexico)

Standard fare from the market

Gifts from our California guests. Thank god for Wholefoods

This is what Sour-Sop fruit looks like inside; the outside looks like a cactus in the shape of an ass I put it in the food processor after removing the big black seeds, with dash of cinnamon. Once placed in the freezer, you have excellent sorbet. Sour Sop is naturally sweet.

Italian coffee cake made with rocotti, chocolate, and crushed almonds

Two wines in hand are better then one in the bush? How does that go?

Welcome Marlyn, our new crew member, a local girl from Suva, soon to be world traveler.

We first met Marlyn on Denarau Island, working as a hostess at a cafe called Lulu's. Marlyn was on her way to attend sea school in her home town of Suva and had big dreams of getting a job one day on a mega yacht. Slow Dance needed another deckhand/stewardess and captain Sean decided to give her this incredible opportunity to get training and experience. The Nobel House crew has tried to steal Marlyn away from us but she wouldn't think of leaving us; she is loyal and true blue! Welcome Marlyn, you are a peach and a fast learner, which has allowed me to return home for a visit with my family.

Hurricane holes, monsoon blues, goodby and hello.

Slow Dance and Noble House in Point Denarau marina, under the full moon

 Dead Reckoning is a nautical term for getting from point A to point B, however, there are variables such as wind, current, and weather that effect the journey. Very much like life, yes? I took the photo below early one morning on the way to Latoka in the tender; we were scouting out the mangroves where large boats hide from cyclones. The morning was ethereal, you couldn't tell the ocean from the sky.  We never actually found the alleged safe haven, but as fate would have it, Slow Dance departed Denarau from Vita Lavu just before the worst rain in 300 years. Now that's what I call being in the rhythm of things.

Where does the ocean meet the sky? A True infinity pool!

Vanna Lavu means "Great Land" and although the northern island is half the size of Vita Lavu, there is much to do. Peppered with many islands and even a few Atolls, the north offers varied landscapes, friendly people, and virtually no tourists. We were a spectacle for all the small villages and towns we visited. The weather prevented sailing to the Lau Group, which was a disappointment for all of us, but bad weather turned really bad and Slow Dance headed back for SavuSavu as a  hopeful haven from the cyclone that was building in Vanuatu and headed for Fiji! That story yet to be told.....

Sailing up north, we escaped Denarau just before the heavy rain.

Viani Bay, JJ hacienda

 After provisioning in Savusavu, we headed north to explore the smaller islands and atolls. We waited out some weather in Viani Bay; a beautiful place not far from rainbow reef abounding with sea turtles, fish, underwater cliffs, and walls of live coral. Sean and Corrie did a dive on the reef, while Ron and I opted for a snorkel. Ron did a free dive to 25 feet; he hasn't lost his mojoe! 

 "You say hello, I say good-by, I don't know why you say hello, I say good-by." Quote; The Beatles. We said good-by to Sooz-E-Q in Nandi; she returned to the great lake of Superior, to create and explore the rest of her life. We miss you sweet Suzy blue eyes, see you on the flip side.

You jumped the marina to save that hat! The hat sits atop the books in the wheel house. (a bit of you lingering)

Corrie arrived with the New Year and helped crew Slow Dance to the northern islands. Welcome Corrie, so nice to have you back.

Ron and the girls!

Welcome back Corrie, you got out just before the deluge!

Captain Sean and Corrie navigating the reefs.

 Ron, Corrie and I went on an expedition to take Trinidad to shore and had the great pleasure to meet JJ and his lovely wife Jamine. JJ captained a grand ship around the world and Jamine served as galley goddess. Now retired and enjoying there own private slice of paradise. We were invited in for coffee and good conversation. Trini was a hit with the house dogs, who were a hit with us!

The beach out front, Viani Bay

Navigation is serious business and captain Sean does it well. We have charts installed on the main frame which show the ocean layout Also we have two radar systems. Fiji is surrounded by reef and the charts have not always been accurate for the remote places we have traveled. Good thing we have good eyes and lots of knowledge aboard!



The weather was rainy with bursts of warm tropical sun, at which time, we all enjoyed the delicious South Pacific waters.

We headed out for the remote islands and atolls. First landing was Kloa, home to 300 Polynesian's from the island Vaitupu. This was interesting as the people purchased the island in 1946, just after the war. There were no Fijians here, just Peace Corp guys. The women are famous for their basket weaving and Ron bought a new shoe basket for the boat. We spent a day here, talking to the elders, playing with the kids and the new litter of puppies.

JJ, Jamine, Cookie, and Tee.

Rescued Lady

Coco, 4 months

There are many small resorts around Viani Bay and we hit them all (those that were still open) to be social and drink some Fiji bitter.

The Garden Isle, Taveuni

Ron, Sean, and Corrie. This was a nice resort and we had fun playing pool and swimming in the pool!

Nap Time

The trees are magnificent and I just couldn't capture their graceful beauty.

From spreading banyan, to flowering mangosteen, to beloved palm forest, gotta love them trees.

Bulu, Bulu Bar

Some island bar up north

I caught them drinking girly-man drinks!

Captain Ron crashes yet another remote island resort! So cool traveling by boat!

Beach on Viani Bay

Beach on deserted island

Trini's favorite beach. There was a trail that wound around the bay.

We also visited a small island called Rambi that was purchased by the people in 1945. These people were Melanesian as opposed to Polynesian and although they were all Fijian citizens, no Fijians inhabited the island. The Banaban people on Rambi are from Banaba, a six square km raised atoll 450 miles from Tarawa in the Gilbert islands.

Jack fish, known in the Pacific as Yellow-tail. Best darn fish I ever ate!

The waters around Taveuni are famous for deep sea fishing as well as top world diving sites. We caught an ugly guy known as Jack or yellow tail, (not tuna) as the tip of his fin is yellow. This was by far the best fish any of us had eaten. The meat was firm and white, flaky and non fishy.  I grilled him, made fish and chips, sauteed him Mediterranean style with lemon, capers, and artichokes, and served grilled slices over Quinoa with black beans. Yummiest fish ever...hope we catch another. 

B J reeled him in at 25 LBS.

Taveuni is lush, 20 shades of green, third largest island in Fiji, has the highest mountain in all the land,Tangimauthia flowers that bloom only in December and grow only around Taveuni's 900 meter high crater lake, (awesome flowers) So cool!

The river in Waiyevo town.

Roadside stand with bushiest pineapple tops i ever did see.

It all started here with Trini

The rain had subsided and we were going to take a guided hike to the waterfall; then change of plan led us to move the boat closer to the harbor at Taveuni. As things turned out, the waterfall was 2 hours from the town so we canceled and went to the market instead. Things work so funny here; the cab was $10.00 Fiji dollars to the market, so the cab driver asked Sean if he had a drivers license, which Sean replied yes, so the guy just gave Sean the key to his "very nice new" SUV. so we could drive ourselves to the market. These folk are very trusting and genuine.

Soul Man

Waiyevo, is the name of the town and after our trip to the market I decided to take Trini for a small walk about. We hadn't gone far up the road when this nice fellow appeared and invited me into the family home for a visit. (Fijians are insanely friendly) I had just entered the house when Ron showed up and we were both offered a chair. The big man of the house did not speak a word of English so soul man interpreted. These folks were convinced that God had sent us because it had been storming for weeks and we appeared along with the good improved weather. I mentioned Bob Marley and received a very favorable response. Bob Marley is highly regarded and considered a prophet in all the islands, as well as all the world. The big man spoke slowly and his words carried weight. He took our chance arrival as a very good omen. He said Ron and I reminded him of his parents? Hum mm.

The family asked if we would like to see Date Line. Ron and I thought they were talking about the TV show. We were led outside expecting to see a big screen TV but instead we were taken to the official marker where each day begins; that would be the "International Date Line"! People come from all over the world to find this site and we just stumbled on it by accident! One foot in Tuesday and the other in Wednesday!

Ron with the family

Swing in the living-room

Cookie and Trini

Grace

The Big Hookah

The official site where each new day begins

Sunset at SavuSavu

The sunsets are outrageous here

Oh yes, about the hurricane; we found ourselves out in the open ocean with a huge storm brewing. All weather forecasts were waning of a cyclone building and potentially hitting the Fiji islands. The closest place to run was SavuSavu and we made a beeline back there to safe harbor. It rained hard for a week and as luck would have it, the storm fell short of a full blown cyclone. The big island of Vita Vanu was hit hard with flooding and many of the main roads were flooded out. So overall, we are in a good place here in northern Fiji and will stay put for the next 30 days.  

Slow Dance in the safe harbor at SavuSavu

HAPPY BIRTHDAY RON!

Nice thing about having your birthday here is that you get to have it twice!